Necktie sewing machines



Dec. 17, 1957 v, M. NEWMAN NEQKTIE SEWING MACHINES 2 sheets-sheet 1v Filed June 6, 1955 v. M. NEWMAN NECKTIE SEWING MACHINES Dec., 17, 1657 2 sheets-sheet 2 Filed Ju'ne 6, 1955 rs fr Mvg@ @rmrul3- INVENTOR.

Arrezvey United States Patent NECKTIE SEWING MACHINES Victor M. Newman, New York, N. Y. 'l Application June s, 19ss,seria1N0. 513,394

8 Claims. (Cl. 112-174) This invention relates to necktie sewing machines of the types shown in Newman Patent No. 2,098,009 of Novem-4 ber 2, 1937.

In the above mentioned patent, there was illustrated and described a necktie sewing mechanism of the slip stitch type wherein two endless members having slotted crimpers serve to crimp pieces of fabric in regular formation while the fabric is also moved relative to a long needle which is held stationary during the formation of the stitch. This long needle passes through the crimped layers of the fabric at the same time that it passes through the crimper slots and forms a series of stitches in the fabric.

The instant invention is an improvement over the above machine in that the crimpers are of improved form in at least the following respects:

The crimpers are formed from stock, square rods for one set of endless members, cooperating with angle crimpers for the other, opposed endless member. The angle crimpers are also of stock material so that the crimpers can be formed very economically without requiring special dies or the like. The square rod crimpers are arranged to be actuated by the flat face of the vertical arms of the angle crimpers, thereby crimping the fabric between such vertical arm and the adjacent face of the square crimper. Theinter-engaging action of the crimpers is of utmost reliability since the open face of the angle crimpers permit the unrestricted movement of the square rod crimpers with no possibility of clashing of crimper teeth during their engagement. Furthermore, the required alignment of the slots in the respective sets of crimpers is accomplished with. greater precision because the respective at, vertical faces4 of the rod crimpers and the angle crimpers, when engaged, tend to line up the slots with greater reliability than were the engaging faces to be rounded or the like.

The other advantages of the described construction. which will appear hereinafter such as the fact that a machine constructed with crimpers of the instant invention can be made shorter so as to conserve space and further, that the penetrating action of the needle is simplified and strain thereon reduced.

The invention will be further understood from the following description and drawings in which:

Figure l is a side elevation of the improved machine;

Figure 2 is a side elevation of one end of the endless. crimpers and the driving means therefor;

Figure 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional View as takerr along the line 3-3 of Figure 2;

. Figure 4 is a top perspective view of the lower endless member provided with crimping angles;

Figure 5 is a cross-sectional view as taken along theA line 5 5 of Figure 5 and further showing the position of the upper endless member thereon together with the needle which penetrates the crimped fabric; and

Figure 6 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken along. the line of a crimper bar and illustrating the action of. the needle in depositing a thread within one of the slotsV thereof.

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Referring to the drawing, the entire structure is supported upon a platform 10 which may be the top of a supporting table or the like. The mechanical structure is supported upon a rear vertical plate 11 which rests upon platform 10. The upper and lower crimper mechanisms are respectively disposed in channels formed by vertical plates 12 and 13 which are spaced relative to the rearwardly disposed plate 11. Plates 11 and 12 are bridged by top plate 14 upon which is supported bobbin 15 having sewing thread 16. Thread 16 is directed through a gravity type tensioning ring 17 loosely disposed over vertical arm 18 and the thread thereafter travels through openings inarms 19 and 20 to and through the eye of conventional stationary needle 21 held stationary in holder 21a, all of which structure is more or less conventional and largely shown in the above mentioned patent.

In operation, a folded necktie fabric which may include a lining, is fed into the machine in the direction of arrow 22, the action being described in the above patent and being well known in the art.

A tie lining and fabric `guide mechanism 23 is secured to the rear vertical plate 11 and serves as a support for the fabric as it is fed into the machine. The construction of the guide is disclosed in my prior Patent No. 2,612,126, dated September 30, 1952.

As is well understood, the fabric is fed to the machine through the action of toothed rollers or sprockets which support endless members in oval form. Thus, upper rollers or sprockets 24 and 25 are maintained spaced and` supported in anti-friction bearings disposed at the respec-- tive ends of plates 11 and 12. Lower rollers or sprocket-s 26 and 27 similarly support an endless member and are journaled in anti-friction bearings disposed at the respective ends of plates 11 and 13.

In the form shown, the endless members comprise conventional exible chains having inwardly directed teeth which are engaged by the teeth of the sprockets as illustrated in Figure 2. Substantially any form of driving chain may be employed as will be evident.

Lower endless member 28, which takes the form of a flexible chain as above described, is driven by the toothed` sprocket 26 which, is itself driven by belt v29 operated through pulley 30 and a motor (not shown). As illustrated in Figure 4, the upper side or back of chain 28l is substantially planar and it supports on its periphery a series of angle crimpers 31 in spaced relationship, each anglecrimper being elongated and one end of the horizontal arm thereof being connected to the chain so that the greater part of the crimper extends outwardly of the chain. .Each angle crimper 31 comprises an L-shaped metal member, the angle between the arms being It is formed with a vertical slot 32 in its vertical arm, such vertical slot being adapted to receive the needle 21. As an'additional feature of the invention, the vertical arm of the crimper is also formed with a deeper slot 33 which optionally produces longer stitches as will hereinafter be made clear.

Such angle crimpers 31 extend completely around the endless chain 2S and are, of course, positively driven by the action -of sprocket 26.

The upper endless member 34 is also in the form of anendless chain having teeth which mesh with the teeth of sprocket 24. The back of the chain is alsoplanar but instead of angle crimpers, it supports a series of spaced rectangular rod crimpers 35, such crimpers being shown as square in cross section. All the sprockets other than sprocket 26 are idlers. When the sprocket 26 is driven in the direction indicated by arrow 36, the vertical arms 31a of the angle crimpers 31 engage and actuate the sides of rod crimpers 35 andthus drive the upper endless member 28 in the direction of arrow 22.

As will'bewshownhereinafter, inthe actual operation..

jointly between the upper and lower endless membersf4 Actually, this will be accomplished by the action 'ofangle crimpers 31 which push the fabric against the-side vof a rod crimper, simultaneously advancing upon the stationary needle 21. As observed in Figure 6, the need-'leyZl extends through the slots while depositing the l.thread 16 therethrough. Figure shows the-disposi.tion..of1the fabric F; the flat face 40 of the rod crimpers: 35 being flatly engaged by the rear sides of the vertical arms 31a,

the thickness of the fabric intervening, of course, betweenV such engagement.

The rod crimpers 35 are each formed with a transverse slot 41 which is arranged to become aligned with the slot-32 of the angle crimpers. Inasmuch as all ofthe crimpers are fixedly secured to the chains by rivets as illustrated in Figure 3, proper alignment of the respective slots in predetermined relationship is made possible.

It will be understood that theA endless members are actuated in the direction of arrows 22 and 35 until substantially the entire fabric to be sewn has been'impaled upon the threaded needle 21. Thereafter, as is well understood, the lower sprocket 24 is actuated in an oppositedirection so as to deliver the sewn necktie tothe front of the machine, conventional means having been employed to maintain the thread in place so as to form the stitches.

It`will be observed that the square rod crimpers are further formed with a deeper slot 42 which is inward of slot 41 and aligns with slot 33 of the vertical arm. In the event that longer stitches are desirable, the needle 21 is directed through the additional slots 42 and 33 rather than slots 41 and 32 and this will be found to produce such longer stitches. Such a change requires the re-mounting of needle 21 in holderv21a to a relatively inward position where it is aligned with the inward slots. This structure will also have the effect of displacing the line-of stitches inwardly and the extent thereof may be variedas desired by forming the yadditional slots further inwardly.

The` at vertical formation of the fabric where itis pressed byf'the vertical arm 31a against the flat face 40 of -the .square rod crimpers is of particular advantage because it takes upconsiderable fabric in the Vertical direction and accordingly permits the machine to be made shorter.V An equally important advantage is that the needle tip is forced through such vertically disposed fabric portions rso as to reduce the strain on the needle and enhance-its penetrating action. In other words, fabric which is perfectly vertical and clamped in this position is-Yeasierl to penetrate` than slanted fabric so that the machine operates more smoothly and faster.

It will also be observed (Figures 3 and 4) that the horizontal arm of the angle crimpers 31 extend further outwardly than the vertical arms 31a or the rod crimpers 35. The purpose thereof is to facilitate the depositing of the fabric in the machine as it is grasped by. the crimpers Thus the operator may rest his finger on the outwardextension 44 so as not to risk catching his hand betweenlrthe crimpers.

As. notedv in Figure 2, the width of the rod crimpers 35 is'appreciably greater than the width of the vertical arms 31m This has the etfect of producing small stitches in the side of the lining which faces the outer fabric when the. tie. is turned to its normal positionaftensewing. The other side of the lining as well as the inner o1' rearwardly disposed fabric will have larger stitches. This is of the greatest importance because large stitches could be felt through the front fabric and even seen under some cir- 4 cumstances. It is important therefore to arrange for larger stitches at the rear portion of the finished and turned necktie so that the stitches adjacent the front fabric will be as undiscernible as possible.

There has been shown what is now considered a preferred embodiment of the invention but it is obvious that numerous changes and omissions may be made without departing from its spirit.

What is claimed is:

l. In a necktie sewing machine having opposed, driven, upper and lower endless members between which a stationary needle is disposed for stitching a length of fabric between said endless members, an upper and a lower series of spaced crimper bars respectively disposed around the periphery of said endless members and adapted to engage each other for crimping and advancing the fabric over the needle, the upper series of crimper bars being of rectangular cross-section and the lower series being angular and both series of crimper bars having at faces adapted to engage each other through intervening fabric, all of said crimper bars having a series of aligned slots through which the needle traverses for forming stitches in the fabric.

2. A mechanism according to claim 1 and wherein the angle of said angular bars is a right angle and in the form of an L, whereby said lower series of crimper bars comprises a succession of L-shaped members having one arm horizontal, said horizontal arm being connected to one of said endless members, and said engaging flat faces of the respective series of crimper bars being vertical, said series of aligned slots being formed through the vertical arm of the L-shaped crimper bars and completely through said rectangular crimper bars.

3. A mechanism according to claim 2 and wherein said rectangular crimper bars are square, and wider than said vertical arms, and means to drive said lower endless member whereby the at faces of said angular crimper bars drive said upper endless member by actuating the square crimper bars thereof.

4. A mechanism according to claim 3 and wherein each of said endless members is a chain, and wherein a rear flat face of the vertical arm of each L-shaped angular crimper bar actuates the front flat face of an adjacent square crimper bar.

5. In a necktie sewing machine having opposed, driven, endless members between which a stationary needle is disposed for stitching a length of fabric between said endless members, two series of spaced crimping bars respectively disposed around the periphery of said endless members and adapted to engage each other for crimping and advancing the fabric over the needle, one series of crimper bars being of rectangular crosssection and the other series being angular and both series of crimper bars having at faces adapted to en-y gage each other through intervening fabric, all of said crimper bars having a series of aligned slots through which the needle traverses for forming stitches in the fabric, the angle of said angular bars being a right angle and in the form of an L having a horizontal arm and a vertical arm, all of said crimper bars being elongated and having one end thereof connected to the endless members, all of said bars overhanging said endlessI members and said horizontal arms extending further outwardly away from said endless members than said vertical arms whereby said further extending portions may serve as a nger rest when fabric is fed between the series of crimper bars.

6. In a necktie sewing machine having opposed,

driven, endless members between which a stationary' needle is disposed for stitching a length of fabric be` tween said endless members, two series of spaced crimper bars respectivelyv disposed around the periphery of said endlessv members and adapted' to engage each other for crimping and advancing the fabric over the needle, one' series of crimper bars being of rectangular cross-section and the other series being angular and both series of crimper bars having flat faces adapted to engage each other through intervening fabric, all of said crimper bars having a series of aligned slots through which the needle traverses for forming stitches in the fabric, the angle of said angular bars being of a right angle and in the form of an L, whereby said angular series of crimper bars comprises a succession of L-shaped members having one arm horizontal, said horizontal arm being connected to one of said endless members, and said engaging at faces of the respective series of crimper bars being vertical, said series of aligned slots being formed through the vertical arm of the L-shaped crimper bars and completely through said rectangular crimper bars, said rectangular crimper bars being square and being disposed on an upper of said endless members, said angular crimper bars being disposed on a lower of said endless members, means to drive said lower endless member whereby the flat faces of said angular crimper bars drive said upper endless member by actuating the square crimper bars thereof, each of said endless members being a chain, a rear at face of the vertical arm of each I..shaped crimper bar actuating the front at face of an adjacent square crimper bar, all of said crimper bars being elongated and having one end thereof connested to the endless members, all of said bars overhanving said endless members, said series of aligned slots being formed in the overhanging portion of said endless members, and an additional series of slots formed in said overhanging portion and adapted to be aligned relatively inwardly of said rst-named series of aligned slots.

7. A mechanism according to claim 6 and wherein said additional series of slots is formed deeper in both sets of crimper bars than said rst-named series of slots so as to increase the length of formed stitches.

8. In a necktie sewing machine having opposed, driven, upper and lower endless members between which a stationary needle is disposed for stitching a length of fabric and lining between said endless members, an upper and a lower series of spaced crimper bars respectively disposed around the periphery of said endless members and adapted to engage each other for crimping and advancing the fabric and lining over the needle, the upper series of crimper bars being of rectangular cross-section and the lower series being angular and both series of crimper bars being adapted to engage each other through intervening fabric and lining, all of said crimper bars having a series of aligned slots through which the needle traverses for forming stitches in the fabric and lining, each of said angular crimper bars including a substantially vertical arm which engages the rectangular crimper bars of the upper series, the width of said rectangular crimper bars being greater than the width of said vertical arm.

References Cited in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,016,290 Morris Oct. 8, 1935 2,098,009 Newman et al. Nov. 2, 1937 2,374,033 Newman Apr. 17, 1945 

